Danjugan Island: precious aqua marine

During our long-awaited vacation in Punta Bulata, wonder | wander | women also took the chance to visit the nature sanctuary of Danjugan Island. We booked an outrigger trip; due to the heat, only one of us could go, but we made the most of the trip!

The island was a popular diving spot for decades but gradually became overfished and its ecosystem threatened. When it came out that one of its trees was home to a rare nesting pair of white-bellied sea eagles, a group of divers banded together to buy the island and turn it into a wildlife preserve. They founded the Philippine Reef and Rainforest Conservation Foundation, which manages and stewards Danjugan till today.

Danjugan is not only a nature preserve but also a centre for education and eco-tourism. These days there is no scuba diving allowed on the island except by scientific researchers approved by the foundation. Instead the island has several activities for visitors and camps, like trekking, kayaking and snorkelling.

Moray Lagoon

As soon as visitors land on the island they're greeted by a guide who lays out the history and protected status of Danjugan as a marine reserve and research centre. As well as the PRRCFI, global organisations such as the Coral Cay foundation and the World Land Trust support the conservation and study of the island and its wildlife.

Our guide explaining the zones of the island

The study and lecture houses are actually built in Moray Lagoon where the boat lands, the better to directly observe the marine and plant life in and around the water. The mangrove forests surrounding the lagoon and the overhanging houses themselves serve as nurseries for the moray eels and other fish that live there, protecting young marine life from the predators and harsh weather outside the lagoon.

View of the lagoon from the observation room

This is where we practiced our kayaking, to see the lagoon up close and prepare for the later two-man trip to the snorkelling cove. It was a little risky to dig the phone out of our waterproof bag for photos so we're glad the kayak was so stable!

Then we trekked across the island toward the opposite beach. Danjugan has several bodies of water but no freshwater source; all the fresh water supporting visitors and staff has to come in by boat. The islanders also take advantage of heavy rainfall when it comes.

Trekking path through the island interior

Danjugan shelters 10 different bat species that live in caves all over the island, especially this steep-sided cave where hordes of bats nest over water. The cave also houses pythons that nest here for an easy meal; the snakes snuggle into high crags and lean out for a quick bite when the bats swarm at dawn and dusk.

Bat (and snake) cave. There is no path in so only guides
and researchers can enter, with the proper equipment.

It was high tide, so when we reached the opposite shore we rowed a two-person kayak - a much quicker trip than walking over a mile or so of beach to Typhoon Beach, the snorkelling cove where visitors can stay overnight, as well as enjoy meals of fresh seafood and vegetables. 

Kropek and calamansi juice for after-swim snacks!
Best to restore salt and hydration to the body.

There is no electricity on the island apart from a little solar power to supply the kitchen and the marine research teams, so it's better to stay in the breezier months when you don't need air conditioning.

Guest cabin

Typhoon Beach is so named because it's the side of the island that faces open ocean and is exposed to the stormy Pacific weather. But that day it was barely even breezy, and the sun was blazing. I retreated to the shade of the sunset viewing deck, which was shaded by lots of different trees and boasted two nap-ready hammocks as well as tables for eating al fresco. 

Instead of eating, I sipped fresh coffee provided by the tour and pulled out my sketchbook. Barring some Charlie-Chaplin-esque manoeuvres as I settled in the hammock, it was comfy and relaxing and I could have sat there drawing for hours. But of course, I was dying to get back in the water and go snorkelling, something I had missed doing for over ten years.

Unfortunately I had no waterproof camera, nor did we shell out for the GoPro tour with underwater photography. But our guide swam with us through unfolding landscapes of coral reefs, giant clams and massive schools of fish and other marine wildlife. 

Photo by Danjugan Island Sanctuary

Mom and her friends had called these reefs home back in their scuba-diving days, and it made me happy to swim among the clownfish and corals that she had told me about through the years.

The shores of Typhoon Beach.
The water is clear enough to see the reefs!

After ten years not swimming in the ocean, I was not in the best shape to be diving and swimming around, but I would have happily spent the whole afternoon in that cove looking over acres of coral valleys and meeting all sorts of colourful tropical fish that weren't at all afraid of humans. Still, our time was up and it was time to take the boat back home. 

Returning to Punta Bulata

I resolved to return as soon as possible, this time with Mom. Next time wander | wander | women can finally share some underwater adventures around this precious living jewel that is Danjugan Island.